AW 20/21 UPDATING REPORT:envelopping comfort

08/12/2019
AW 20/21 UPDATING REPORT:envelopping comfort

Supple, comforting and structured materials!

 

 

 

The Update survey, which canvassed a select group of international buyers this October and November, highlighted essential products to add to your autumn-winter 2020-2021 collections now.

 

 

This survey underlines the increasingly fine line between sportswear and citywear. The season is oriented towards a new subtlety, expressed through fabrics that are at once supple, comforting and structured. The responsible commitment continues to grow and inspires all materials.

 

 

 

Childlike furries and sheepskins

 

 

The search for suppleness, warmth and eco-responsibility brings a renewed focus on beautiful natural materials.

 

In larger clothing items, warmth is expressed by the presence of hairy or brushed wools, such as the blurred check in a hairy woollen from Manteco or the mohair and virgin wool mix from Roberto Drighi. These are perfect materials for the large enveloping items that were popular with the buyers surveyed in the survey.

 

 

Fabrics | Woolens | MANTECO Spa, Italy| Réf : ANDALO TD LUC F 1 20 Z - ANDALO TD LUC F 1 20 Z | 17%WO 47%PC 32%PL 4%AF | See more

 

 

Fabrics | Woolens | Lanificio Roberto Drighi, Italy| Réf : Esmeralda 86637 - Esmeralda 86637 | 56%WV 12%WM 26%VI 6%PA | See more

 

 

Wool broadcloth also aims for a new downy softness. The cashmere and wool flannel from Shandong Nanshan Zhishang has a responsible finishing to add wind-proof protection while retaining all the warm properties and natural look of the wool.

 

 

 

Fabrics | Suitings | SHANDONG NANSHAN ZHISHANG SCI-TECH CO.,LTD, China| Réf : GI088.001/1 - flannel | 50%WV 50%WS | See more

 

 

Buyers also opted for chubby fabrics with a sheepskin or fake-fur back to call forth a slightly childlike aspect. We should also note the particular effort made by weavers in terms of eco-responsibility.

 

Texmoda's natural cotton/linen blend with the look of short, curly lambskin is fully traceable. Ecopel proposes a plush fake-fur made from recycled vegetable materials.

 

 

 

Fabrics | Woollens | TEXMODA TESSUTI SRL, Italy| Réf : 44321/SMART- 44321/SMART| 67%LI 33%CO |See more

 

 

 

Fabrics | Imitation skins and furs| Ecopel, China| Réf : RC14409 - Camel TEDDY | See more

 

 

 

Light and dense suitings

 

 

The new suiting blends combine a light handle with a dense and comforting look, as seen in Delta Tex's viscose wool.

 

 

 

Fabrics | Silkies| DELTA TEX, Italy| Réf : 6066ET- 6066ET| 90%VI 9%WO 1%EA | See more

 

 

In pants, skirts and bottoms, suppleness will combine with an interplay of textured effects incuding diagonals and ribs that lend a structured touch to the material.

 

Refined, malleable cottons feature twills and plays on marked diagonals as seen at Ego Picchi and at Tusa in its cotton/linen/lyocel twill.

 

 

 

Fabrics | Casual| EGO SRL, Italy| Réf : Shazam- Shazam | 100%VI | See more

 

 

Fabrics | Denim | TUSA DENIM, Turkey | Réf : 5100- 5100 | 10% Cotton 54%Tencel 36%Linen | See more

 

 

 

Velvets and corduroys, still widely popular with buyers, combine thick ribs and suppleness thanks to cotton/viscose blends like those found at Texlover and Redaelli Vellutti, and Jackytex's virgin wool/polyamide blends.

 

 

 

Fabrics | Plain| TEXLOVER, Italy | Réf : APUANE- APUANE| 48% CO 50% Vi 2% EA | See more

 

 

 

Fabrics | Plain| REDAELLI VELLUTI, Italy | Réf : RIBS8- RIBS8 | 95%CO 5%MD | See more

 

 

Fabrics | Knits | JACKYTEX, Italy | Réf : JQUI2954-QUIMPER 2954- JQUI2954-QUIMPER 2954 |67%WO 33%PA | See more

 

Airy knits

 

 

For knits, international buyers are also going in for comfort while opting for light and airy materials. The sporty-chic influence will put the spotlight on new polars and refined fleeces such as Takisada Nagoya's bouclette knit and Jackytex's bouclée wool with a Lurex yarn.

 

 

 

Fabrics | Knits | TAKISADA-NAGOYA, Japan | Réf : 14-5107- NEW ZEALAND SHEEP PILE | 73%WOOL 27%POLYESTER | See more

 

 

 

Fabrics | Jacquard | Jackytex, Italy | Réf : JALN2396 - ALDEBARAN 2396 | 48% WO 46%PA 6%PL | See more

 

 

 

In a continuation of this sport influence, buyers also liked knits that are dense and substantial thanks to two-way stretch versions.

 

 

 

Fabrics | Knits | Everest Textile Co., Ltd., Taiwan | Réf : LFS12202AQD - Double Jersey (UMORFIL) | Polyester/UMORFIL-N/Spandex=55/29/16 | See more

 

 

Fabrics | Knits | Hironen Co., LTD, Japan | Réf : NFS6341 - Bi-stretch tricot | PA90% EA10% | See more

 

 

The survey reveals that buyers are moving somewhat away from technical materials, always seeking greater subtlety. This means that innovative blends that successfully combine lightness, eco-responsibility and comforting warmth are in dem.

 

 

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