Men's AW 20-21 shows: Genderless Elegance

29/01/2020
Men's AW 20-21 shows: Genderless Elegance

For several seasons now, a growing number of designers have been using male and female models in the same show, switching up the established codes. At the Men's AW 20-21 shows, they carry this thought process even further, using clothes to question the entire concept of gender.

 

After having given so much thought to femininity, going back and forth between uber-sensuality and a search for female empowerment, designers - in a spirit of gender equality - are showing an interest in the whole issue of virility.

 

With all the subtlety required when addressing this issue, they are now revisiting the underpinnings of men's and women's wardrobes: tailoring for men, and dresses, skirts and luxury accessories for women.

 

From a couture spirit to a heightened sensitivity, wardrobes are swapped and styles are fused  - with new genderless elegance the new byword.

 

 

Genderless Couture

 

Embracing both timelessness and eccentricity, the suit unquestionably emerged as the flagship piece on the designer runways. The luxe signature of a new dandy, free and unfettered by gender codes, the season's suits aspire to sophistication and take on a couture dimension.

 

The AW 20-21 men's suit is oriented towards softened and refined silk or woollen fabrics that invite a play on contrasting volumes. Trousers are wide and full, rather high waisted and pleated, and worn with big streamlined biker boots. Double breasted jackets with strong shoulders worked in silk or satin for a perfect drape, and tuxedos with colored contrasting collars: these new suits are red-carpet worthy.

 

 

 

Fabrics | Silkies | Mitsubishi Chemical, Japan | Réf : SE35110RM - Triacetate/Tencel mix twill | 72%Triacetate 28%Tencel | See more

 

 

 

Fabrics | Silkies | Italian Converter, Italy | Réf : 6647FLY - Raso lore str+lycra | 82% PA 18% EA | See more

 

 

 

Shirts favoured couture materials with a marked lightness and opulence. Transparent organza shirts, with strap detailing floating in the air with every move, can be tucked in and gathered to give volume to flowing trousers.

 

They lend next winter's menswear a poetic, sensual and sensitive allure. A slightly decadent aspect emerges when dresses or skirts are layered over trousers and combined with light, belted blazers, a cross between a trench coat and a bathrobe. In moiré silk, shiny or stamped velvet, silhouettes are over accessorized and display an extreme elegance suggesting menswear liberated of all gendered codes.

 

 

 

Fabrics | Silkies | Bucol, France | Réf : 01670000PJ016 - Taffetas PL - SE Recycle| 66% PL REC 34% SE | See more

 

 

 

Fabrics | Plain | Tessitura Attilio Imperiali, Italy | Réf : 1029/4 - Taffetas | 100% Silk | See more

 

 

 

Fabrics | Plain | VELCOREX, France | Réf : QF00004339 - BALZAC / LEG | 79% CO 19%MODAL 2%ELASTHANNE | See more

 

 

New neutrals and pop accents

 

 

Colour ranges echo the bold creative choices of the fashion shows. On the one hand, new natural neutrals emerge and confirm the AW 20-21 Updating survey, with a lowkey palette of deep forest tones, including colourful and pigmented greens and dark brown sepia. Muted and elegant, worked in chiaroscuro, a chromatic palette combing the pinkish beige, brick lip and dark browns of the Winter AW 20-21 colour range echoes the quest for timelessness and a new idea of luxury.

 

On the other, a range of invigorating, energizing colours with sharp pop accents vaunts eccentricity and an upbeat mood. Bold shorn-velvet suits in a purple-addict hue, bombers in punchy, almost childlike toned nappa leathers, oversized trench coats in pink or incandescent red nylon -  silhouettes worked in colour blocks or in colourful monochromes don't shy from fantasy.

 

 

Fabrics | Silkies | Texlover, Italy | Réf : EXCITING - BEST INVERSE SATIN VISCO ACETATE PD | 71%AC 29%VI | See more

 

 

 

Fabrics | Technical fabrics | TAKISADA-NAGOYA, Japan | Réf : 81-41052 - COTTON LIKE POLYAMIDE TAFFETA | See more

 

 

 

Leather | Nubuck | COLOMER MUNMANY EUROPE COMPANY LTD, Spain | Réf : NAPA PERLADO - NAPA PERLADO | Calf | See more

 

 

Precious accessories

 

 

Shapes and colour ranges are gender-neutral and easily interchangeable. This points to a unisex wardrobe emphasis that will be accentuated to the point of exaggeration by accessories. Played in layers under men's suits, the bra, the symbol par excellence of femininity, made a bow on the men's catwalks.

 

Silhouettes are over-accessorised, and go in for opulence, as in fine knotted scarves in printed silk, precious brooches with gems and cultured pearls that fasten collars right up to the throat. The pile-on of jewellery, rings, signet rings, and necklaces worn against the skin breaks the codes of a past masculinity that has seen its day. Exquisitely baroque gloves are trimmed in gemstones and pearls, rhinestones and precious studs. Hats, berets and caps are embellished with accessories: pink fabric, stones, zips...

 

Accessories | Jewellery components | GAFFORELLI Srl, Italy | Réf : 5821_camp - Pearls ring composed by chain and settings | Brass| See more

 

 

Accessories | Functional accessories | GAFFORELLI Srl, Italy | Réf : A214_camp - Rhinestones cufflink with gold chain| Metal + Glass| See more

 

An anti-conformist, irreverent and incredibly elegant air is redefining the status of the AW 20-21 dandy. Designers are freeing themselves from gender codes to reinvent masculinity, and bring it into the modern world.

 

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