Eco-responsible AW2122: Analysed by Style Universe

15/09/2020

The season's transversal highlights for eco-responsible developments and innovations.
 Vanham © Dean Giffin and Vitaly Grossmann

Environmental responsibility can no longer be viewed as an optional choice. The Autumn Winter 21-22 season is a clear statement of the firm resolutions exhibitors have taken to create an innovative industrial offer, and help secure their place in a cleaner, eco-friendlier future full of promise. Committed to meeting the needs of a consumer no longer interested in making a compromise between beauty, performance and eco-responsibility, exhibitors have aligned their latest developments in a globally eco-friendly approach. This starts in upstream, taking into account everything from a product's origins to fabrication, and inspires all sectors. Eco-responsibility is becoming resolutely fashion-oriented, firmly proclaiming a desire to impact the future at every moment of our lives. Pioneers in sustainable developments, the Sport & Tech industry proposes a superior sports product with multiple performance features. Casual and urban chic continue their style evolution in a caringly responsible and impeccable manner. Tailoring maintains its exacting standards, but at a less frenetic pace, taking the time to reflect on the choice of materials. Under the guise of frivolity, the cocktail segment is similarly focused on the future, while never thinking of giving up its seductive and glamourous side.

Evening style
Evening wear and eco-awareness are no longer incompatible. Keeping eco-friendliness under wraps isn't necessary, in fact sustainability is proudly affirmed for even the most festive occasions. Far from clichés about lightness and insouciance, truly rarefied clothing is marked by a special attention paid to the product - a new approach to luxury where the time is taken to learn a material's origins, to better amplify and magnify them. Minimalist dresses and tops inspired by lingerie are fashioned from organic silks in shocking pink, embellished with refined lace inserts on deep V-necklines. A new definition of glamour that brilliantly combines seductive potential and ecological requirements. Dresses and tops readily adopt couture references, from asymmetrical shapes to mutton-leg sleeves and exaggerated bows, pleated or elaborated in opulent jacquards made from recycled materials. When naturally stretchy, their decorations require less water and harmful treatments, while retaining all their metallic and shimmering dazzle. Thigh-high dresses put the spotlight on long legs perched on pumps made of the finest-quality exotic or embossed traceable leathers. They go perfectly with tiny bags to be carried in the hand, demonstrating a desire to change the future. Coats are embellished with oversized furs with colorful and eccentric hairs in recycled polyester blends, while skins and fleeces turn avidly to sustainable finishes meeting the strictest standards.  Exhibitors: Marmara Deri, Anaconda, Marmara Deri, Bucol, Soieries Chambutaires, Brecotessile, Marini Industrie, Soieries Chambutaires, Delta Tex, Teseo, Dentelles Jean Bracq, Iluna Group, Dentelles André Laude, Belinac, Valter, ABM, ABM.

Urban Chic
Tailoring and jeanswear continue to evolve, with stylistic codes merging to better update and propose products with a highly eco-friendly identity. There's a desire to refocus on good, reassuring and elegant Essentials, placing functional details at the heart of the season's creative approach. Pragmatic and smart, the work universe turns to timeless materials to make further strides into the future. Recycled denims, organic and ultra-chic cottons in deep indigos rely more and more on waterless techniques. Corduroys, satins and garbardines in virtuous cottons borrow from the tailoring universe. Fitted, neat and precise, sometimes pleated, pants are teamed with matching boxy jackets. Shirtings turn to organic cottons for impeccably cut, close to the body styles. Polo knits have pared-down lines, broken down in discreet micro motifs, including subtle bird's eye weaves. Accessories play on restraint, in dark and chic pigmented leathers. Derby shoes and Chelsea boots with an extremely simplified look and supple extra-large bags are elaborated in mock-croco leathers beefed up with technical performance thanks to vegetal tannings, stretch and water-repellency.  Exhibitors: Azais, Dani, BRB, Ribbontex, Bossa, Evlox Tavex, Tessitura Di Albizzate, JCR Groupe, Kumash Fabrics, Velcorex Since 1828, Fabrica De Tecidos Vilarinho, Kanemasa Knitting, Vilartex.

Sporty elegance
Ever the true precursors, Sport & Tech players continue fielding innovations to provide more and more advanced eco-friendly solutions. The demand for less polluting materials and processes, without ignoring quality and fantasy, continues to expand its frontiers. In this sector, comfort and protection form the focal point of the season's creative directions, especially thanks to super-performing featherweights and stretch that enhances freedom of movement. Protection eschews an aggressive approach in favor of a more caring stance, with comfortable and soft materials -  including recycled, double-face, water-repellent fake furs to throw over short zipped jackets for runs in the freezing cold. Artificial materials with cotton-like visuals and finishings, elaborated thanks to new generation bio-sourced polymers, recycled polyester blends and iridescent polyamides that are ultra-lightweight and windproof are perfect for longer parkas to hit the streets. Anti-bacterial properties are on the rise, enhanced by micro motifs or micro weaves, promising reassuring protection. Knits feature bi-stretch and quick-drying structures, with natural sheathing properties that are compression-free.  Exhibitors: Monotex – Shinheung, Onechang Material, JRC Reflex, Hitop & Zentex, Schoeller Textil, Batm, Heyone, Lemar, M.I.T.I, Balas Textile, A. Sampaio & Filhos, Econnection by Penn Italia, Shindo, Gripmore.

Casual attitude
Relaxed nonchalance doesn't translate into carelessness. Casual materials conceal ever-more innovative sustainable compositions behind their outwardly relaxed look. Aged, brushed and crackled leathers favor vegetal tannings free of heavy-metals showcased on next-generation flight jackets. Elongated, with exaggeratedly deep pockets, they're unisex looking, with wintry versions boasting double-face reversible furs. These new generation leathers - evoking both glazed earthly crusts and the hides of arctic animals - can outfit both mountain and city explorers convinced of the need to respect nature. Tops combine breathable and anti-bacterial features with environmentally-friendly processes. Grandpop-looking tee-shirts opt for extremely fine and warm ribbed jerseys, for ultra-comfortable second-skin garments. They are adorned with chiné, flecked and blurred knits for a remarkable visible softness. Flannel favors organic and recycled cottons for extra-long and genderless over-shirts, to be worn next to the skin for an added touch of sensuality. Casual jackets and pants combine organic and recycled compositions, and stretch with eco-friendly finishings, for a washed look perfect for new, stylish fitted cargos or quilted cotton jackets.  Exhibitors: Azais, Tannerie Remy Carriat, Colomer 1792, Utenos Trikotas, Anbievolution, Fordiani Ricardo & C , Emanuel Lang fondé en 1856, Anbievolution, Fabrica de Tecidos Vilarinho, Tessitura Carlo Bassetti, Marini Industrie, Emanuel Lang fondé en 1856, Bossa, Telatex, Mode Harmony, Dorlet, Close to Clothes, We Nordic Label Studios.

Soft seduction
Women's fashions are all about a caring benevolence. The homewear segment is growing rapidly, driven by an increased access to indoor activities, coupled with a feeling of security and comfort. Furs and leathers with eco performance - traceable, with vegetable or metal-free tannings - combine luxuriously cozy materials and technical properties that facilitate their daily maintenance. Boots in washable shearling or in colorful, stain-resistant sueded calf let you hit the streets without fearing a downpour. Puffy and cozy knits reminiscent of colorful sheep refresh sweaters, loose dresses and cropped pullovers, and are enhanced with breathable and climatic properties. Full silhouettes strike a balance with fine tops in hazy prints, featuring hybrid floral and ikat designs, boasting low-impact dyes and treatments. Coats, both long and oversized or in short cape versions, have brushed surfaces and blurry checks, to envelope these delicate silhouettes in a reassuring warmth.  Exhibitors: Rives 1862, Raynaud, Pellican, Marmara Deri, Sakura Lace, Nastrotex-Cufra, Indet Group, Eurotextile, BRB, Catland, Lanificio Moessmer, LMA – Leandro Manuel Araujo, Produce Sinapsi, Melek Dantel, Bucol, Hamzagil Emprime, COM.IS.TRA, Consinee Group.

Tailored restraint
The world of tailoring doubles down on traditional men's codes, striking a classic note that isn't to be trusted. Underlying the restrained look, fine and luxurious eco-friendly materials are showcased: materials designed to last, produced with care and which deserve a special attention, one requiring expert hands and the savoir-faire to know how to use them to advantage. Vegetable-tanned leathers are steadily improving and now offer leathers with a supple feel. Smooth and barely waxed leathers, perfect for  Oxfords or water-repellent leather computer bags, marry functionality and elegance. Woolens have rather traditional motifs but are astonishingly technical in terms of their performance. With their natural stretch, fine banker-striped fabrics are perfect for constructing fitted suits ready to face up to rainy days and getting around the city on bikes and e-bikes.  Shirtings are neat and clean,  thanks to fine organic-cotton blends, for slim shirts trimmed in micro motifs and mini gingham designs.  Exhibitors: Filarte , Bahariye, Nanshan, Soktas Tekstil, Verne et Clet, Tessitura Carlo Bassetti, Colomer 1792, La Doma, Dani, Mabo Group, Mabo Group, BRB, BRB.

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