Eco-responsible AW2122: Fabrics

15/09/2020

The season's highlights for eco-responsible developments and innovations in fibers and fabrics.

Encouraged by the strong appetite shown by brands and consumers for eco-responsible products, weavers, knitters and decoration specialists actively pursue their research, striving to offer ever cleaner and more environmentally friendly developments. Consumers, eager for transparency and meaning, actively seek information, and factor eco-awareness criteria into their buying decisions, thereby having an impact on the entire production chain. Their demands necessitate the involvement of every player in the textile industry: from yarns, to weaving, to finishing, to manufacturing. This global and comprehensive approach amply justifies the use of the eco-responsible performance codes developed by Première Vision. One striking point is that this emphasis is found in all sectors: Sport & Tech, of course, historically a pioneer in this field, as well as tailored and evening apparel, where eco attributes move them beyond a merely formal or fancy register.

Mixed and entirely eco-responsible compositions
Far from any preconceived ideas about 100% fiber compositions, hybrid blends are and always will be creative and inviting. Eco-responsibility willingly joins the hybrid wave, bringing a whole host of new developments to the fore this season.
One noteworthy aspect is that blended materials now successfully rise to the challenge of compositions that are 100% eco-responsible.
Blends with a minority of ecological materials are clearly no longer enough, the bar of expectations has been raised higher. Recycled blends of cotton and polyester can create a look that's a cross of tailoring and jeanswear, coupled with enhanced performance. Suitings that are a priori classic feature multiple codes: waterless, biodegradable, recycled and organic, give meaning to timeless beauty in an ecological era. Underneath an outwardly classic look, formal pieces feature urban-oriented characteristics, revamping the tailored wardrobe for the coming autumn/winter 21-22 season. New denims balance a very clean, indigo-rich look with the stretchy comfort of recycled elastane, organic cotton and recycled polyester, among others.
The latest cottony blends - recycled/ organic - have an elegant appearance, while retaining their suppleness and ease for ever more chic casual products.
Sporty-inspired knits further their own ambitions. Organic cotton and ®Refibra artificial fiber blends rejuvenate double faces (closed-loop process, producing fibers from wood pulp and cotton waste). Micro-jacquard knits in organic and recycled blends boast both anti-UV and traceable properties, for a perfect combination of esthetic appeal, innovation and eco-design. Meantime, terry and velour knits - popular this season thanks to their comfort - are elaborated in subtly chiné recycled cotton. In the activewear sector, synthetics are neat and blended with organic fibers. Exhibitors: Bossa, RDD, LMA - Leandro Manuel Araujo, Penn Textile Solutions, Nanshan, Kanemasa Knitting, Telatex, Devaux Dpt Maille, Bugis, Vialaton-Martin, Monotex-Shinheun, Newman Global, Seojin Textile, Can Tekstil.

A 360° eco-virtuous approach
The green circle is ever more virtuous and innovative fibers increasingly meet new criteria and requirements.
Beyond compositions, low impact finishings are growing more refined and sophisticated. Here, dyes and treatments comply with the strictest international standards (with regards to bleaching, water resources, depollution) and rival the most cutting-edge aspects and handles in fashion this season.
Underlying all of this, traceability tracks the history of the material throughout its production chain, from origin to the monitoring of its transformation, all the way to the finished product. In denim, these codes are added together, generating a wide variety of results fully determined to capture both the men's and women's markets. Intentionally raw, indigo plain weaves play on more or less firmly-set weaves and various weights for authentic, almost rustic looks; or on the other end of the scale, are finer, suppler, with a satiny aspect on the border between casual and formal. These fabrics can be found in the season's women's suits, for coordinated jackets and pants that are a perfect mix of comfort and elegance.
A blend of genres is very strong this season, and is also found in corduroys. Made from traceable organic cotton, they are finished with waterless treatments. Handles are full and supple, perfect for designing comfortable high-waist pants with wide legs or a slight flare.  For casual pants, the choice of a low-impact organic cotton multiplies the design possibilities. In recycled mono-stretch, a plain version, or printed with micro birds-eye weaves, the sky is the limit.
Formal shirts are evolving in the same direction, no longer satisfied with organic poplins alone. Today, fabric treatments and dyes consume less water, and materials are recycled. Cottons blended with Lyocell lend suppleness and sensuality to the season's new shirts.
In Sport & Tech, fabrics continue to defend their leadership position in terms of virtuous innovation. The use of bio-polymers is on the rise, and goes hand in hand with the sector's demand for technical performance. Exhibitors: COM.IS.TRA, Filarte, Nanshan, Evlox Tavex, Kumash Fabrics, Yilmaz Kumascilic Tekstil, Telatex, Bugis, Teseo, Barutcu, Derhan Tekstil, Recyctex, Lemar.

Diversification of organic fibers
This season, we're seeing a diversification of organic fibers. Organic versions of natural fibers such as cotton and linen remain strong, but they're no longer limited to the standard organic cotton typically used for casual wear.
In wovens, surfaces are livened up by recognizable patterns, with motifs playing on new proportions in maxi or mini windowpane checks. In knitwear, sweaters are developed with more supple knits, and beefed up with high-tech performance - easy care, notably mono-stretch - while engaging in the season's stylistic codes, including both chiné and plain quilted, puffy and cozy knits.
Lace and guipure elaborated in all-over or as grounds set the stage for feminine garments including blouses, tops, dresses - all fully eco-responsible.
In wovens, woolen suitings break every boundary: double-faced and checked or striped yarn-dyeds are an esthetic match for the most creative developments.
Other natural fibers take a similar approach. Silk in its many iterations - chiffon, organza, fluid satins etc. - is broken down in organic versions to meet the needs of brands seeking fine and luxurious textiles - whether fluid, supple or satiny - for next season's evening and dressy collections. Exhibitors: Delta Tex, Soieries Chambutaires, Filarte, Consinee Group, Steiff Schulte, Rabek Tekstil, Tessitura Colombo Antonio, Dentelles Jean Bracq, NGS Malhas, Tintex, Soktas Tekstil, Kuroki, Tejidos Rebes, Stotz & Co, Libeco.

Diversification of recycled fibers
Recycled natural fibers are diversifying. Wool in particular is turning to more luxurious qualities, and we see a growing amount of recycled cashmere to construct fine, high-end suitings.
Recycled wools offer the same creative possibilities as more traditional fibers, with beautifully rendered checks, throwns and herringbones, also found in brushed versions. Cotton jacquards are powerfully expressive in terms of color and design.
Synthetic fibers remain popular for technical fabrics, and the use of recycled polyesters and polyamides is proving to be an increasingly popular virtuous response. These fibers are particularly interesting to the sport sector due to their high-tech performance features - fast dry*, bi-stretch*, antibacterial* - which make it possible to design entirely recycled sports clothing. They are used in knits, for example micro-piqués, or wovens, in plain or printed down-proof featherweights - perfect for sporty little outdoor jackets.
In shirting and knitwear, the use of ®Refibra fibers enhances suppleness and can be broken down in a wide range of weights.
In silk, recycled polyesters offer the season's most fashion-forward creative solutions, with opulent and generous fancies. Shirred, subtly metallic surfaces, with metal yarns enhancing the wefts, or updated animal-patterned jacquards bring the season's cocktail dresses and tops to life. Synthetic knits and suitings lend a beautiful drape and a round, malleable handle to quite feminine dresses and tops, both body hugging and extremely comfortable. Clothes to wear with a faux fur coat in recycled polyamide or 100% hemp - for a head-to-toe cocktail look with a thoroughly virtuous insouciance. Exhibitors: Iluna Group, ROCLE BY ISABELLA / RBX SAS, Serates, Heyone, Kanemasa Knitting, Schoeller Textil, Polartec, Rabek Tekstil, Kivanç Tekstil, Evlox Tavex, Ecopel, Manifattura Tessile Pierrozzi, Lanificio Subalpino, Abraham Moon, Ruentex Industries, Fabrica de Tecidos Vilarinho, Showa, Troficolor Denim Makers, Fantasie Tricot.

Discover all our decodings by product destination in our Decodings & Collections.
Also discover the article dedicated to eco-responsibility decoded by style universe.

 


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