FOCUS ON AW 21/22 PERSPECTIVES: a decoding by universe

21/09/2020

A desire to reshape the future, to question the frenetic pace of the endless succession of fashion seasons that neither resemble each other, nor allow time for savoir-faire... time is emerging as a central focus of Autumn Winter 21/22.

The appeal of a reassuring timelessness, and the celebration of the passing of time and its transformative effect on matter, can both be viewed through an optimistic and meaningful lens.

Thanks to the natural processes and weatherings that permeate next season's fabrics, imperfections and traces of the past are enhanced -  a way to make materials lively, and receptive to positive change.

 Go to the Digital Show to read our "Perspectives - Lively by Temperament" trend decoding.

Here, a selection of materials by sector, to introduce this Perspectives focus into the development of your AW 21/22 collections.

LEATHER

The season's leathers embrace contrast. Luxurious skins and fine, supple materials confidently mix with aged and eroded aspects, to underscore their difference.

Lamb leathers brilliantly combine eco-responsibility and esthetic appeal. Traceability is actively pursued and vegetable tanning is increasingly used, without ever impeding the creativity of next season's developments.

Their cracked renderings evoke a rich, mineral earth embellished by time. Supple, leathers elaborated through fulling - a technical feat often specific to each tannery - evoke handcrafted products, and move away from classic renderings in favor of more used, patinated looks. These leathers are perfect for pared-down skirts or trench coats, a look both chic and vintage. Wrinkled and pull-up effects accentuate carefully controlled surface or color irregularities, to heighten deliberately warm and earthy nuances. The surfaces of goat skins worked in cooler shades, with bluish grey nuances, are marked with more or less pronounced textures, like expressive facial wrinkles.

TOPS & SHIRTS

In tops and shirts, distinctive irregularities enliven the surfaces of materials. Wovens feature flannel-style woolens for over-sized, genderless overshirts and fine winter linens for chic shirts and shirt-tail hemlines - stylishly rustic looks for a new rural esthetic unwilling to renounce comfort or elegance.

Hoodies and sweat pants take on the look of warm, comfortable cocoons thanks to supple, stretchy double-faced knits or softly slubbed, brushed fleeces.

Checks are rather blurred, growing hazy, with a welcoming visual serenity.

For more feminine tops, very light wool-viscose knits play on stitch-effects for lively and airy textures. These stretchy knits can be used for tops and dresses and combine lightness, thermal performance and a second-skin quality.

 

JACKETS & PANTS

Jacquards for jackets and pants have bouclé, unevenly thick, cut yarns to create surfaces with a deceptively shabby look. Their patterns waver between hazy checks and blurred stripes for a falsely aged look, as if worn by time. Herringbones, a must this season, have fun in new versions that disrupt their familiar look. Lines crisscross and separate, playing on weft direction, yarn thicknesses, and color mixes. The updates to this theoretically classic motif manage to be surprising, with an emotionally-stirring look.

 

SPORT & TECH

Technical materials are enlivened by decorations inspired by natural elements transformed by the years. There's a spirit of abstract and diluted painting, in blue variations, reminiscent of more or less turbulent sea depths. Cottons are readily organic, with low-impact finishings, but undiminished technical performance. Water repellent, wind-proof, these light fabrics worked in little zipped jackets let you blend into the landscape and become one with the outdoor elements.

Waterproof, wind-proof waxed cottons with Tachist prints -  alternating between mineral stones embellished with delicate lime deposits and stormy skies -  are used for new-generation parkas. Technical fabrics in coated polyester blends boast finishings with a worn look and enhanced performance.

Whether reassuringly timeless, or distinctively time-weathered, the season's creative directions all call forth the essential workings of Time itself.

 

 

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