Leather AW2122: Apparel

15/09/2020

The stand-out leathers and furs for leather goods and footwear markets.

For the autumn winter 21-22 season, leathers, skins and furs star in ready-to-wear collections as the generators of desire and creativity. Invention and indulgence have earned them this status; new handles with a firm softness, a surprising weight, have entered the world of leather apparel. Contrasts are surprising, furs are colored with a joyful lightheartedness to imagine new ways of wearing and coordinating skins, furs and textiles.

Fine but firm
Fine leathers lose their “featherweight” appearance to offer density without weight, with a new drape and sensuality. Embossings of round grains and crocodile grain with a satin shine give body to dipped lamb leathers and fine calf leathers. Silky suede leathers are shorn, compact and voluptuous and even patent lamb leathers boast surprising suppleness. Soft leathers with a rich drape and a fluidity borrowed from textiles allow leathers to hang and pleat, meaning they can be used to create ample garments with generous volumes and long items. These leathers shift and accompany movement.  Exhibitors: La Doma, Megisserie Lauret, Colomer 1792, Pellican, Raynaud, Indutan, Azais, Pellican.

Creamy softness
Leathers with a round and spongy handle, with rich and tender textures, offer sophisticated smoothness. Grained leathers are reworked in drums. The structure is spongy and fleshy. Washed lamb leathers with retracted grains deploy their velvety bulges. Scale is multiplied on shearlings with short dense wool and a nubuck flesh side that is oiled or has a greased, powdery silicon texture. Buck leather used in embossed suede split offers astonishing malleability. Leathers that are perfect for ample and short volumes in a cut and stitched sweatshirt spirit, for reversible outer layers or for yokes, associated with textiles.  Exhibitors: Inducol, Tannerie Remy Carriat, Raynaud, Azais, Inducol, Tannerie Remy Carriat, Opera.

Contrasted
With a touch of fancy, multilayer structures and shearlings are seeing double in clashing combinations. Textures and leathers bond to create surprising textures. Smooth shine and matt suede, downy fur and a satin finish, the warm softness of fleece and full grain leather come into contact. Lamb leather and foamy knits are assembled then perforated. These apparently incongruous pairings are not only visual contrasts, but generate an unexpected roundness and new relationships between thickness and weight.  Exhibitors: Marmara Deri, Inducol, Bodin-Joyeux, Fedi Silvano Leather Producer, Marmara Deri, Rial 1957, Texpiel.

Sparkling shine
Surfaces are decorated with shards of quartz on suede calfskin, a hail of sparkle on silky double-sided materials, irregular and precious coppery coatings, or a glittering gleam. A constellation of placed micro-crystals diffuses its contrasting shine on matt or velvety bases.  Exhibitors: Opera, Bodin-Joyeux, Marmara Deri, Rial 1957, Megisserie Lauret, Indutan.

Energetic inflation
Assembled with textiles, quilted, embossed, fine lamb leather is transformed, revealing voluminous padded designs that seem inflated with air. A spectacular padded, smocked and cabled python skin rubs shoulders with delicate overstitched quilting. Coats and fleeces are renewed in a creative direction with handles that are increasingly lightweight and inflated.Brushed, curly, wavy, tousled or sculpted, hair is worked in order to trap air. Mini Merino curls are like a multitude of tiny bouncy corkscrews, astonishingly clearly defined. Short and silky fleeces have an aery density that is perfect for producing joyfully protective items, whereas longer, partially shorn wools are revealed in movement to add dynamism to surfaces.  Exhibitors: Colomer 1792, Rial 1957, Fedi Silvano Leather Producer, Anaconda, Fedi Silvano Leather Producer, Rial 1957, Isisi Trend Design, Ckd Cetinkaya, Rial 1957, La Doma, Inducol, Marmara Deri.

Discover our decodings by product destination in our Decodings & Collections.


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