Leather AW2122: Leather goods

15/09/2020

The stand-out leathers and furs for the leather goods and footwear markets.

This season, the desire to really discover a material, extract its essence, accentuate its characteristics and its nuances in order to enhance its uniqueness is exacerbated. Leathers, skins and textiles used to create emblematic accessories have been reinvented. Shine, semi-transparency and translucency allow the grains of skins and fabrics to be visible. Materials are inspired by their natural environments and play with transpositions of mineral and vegetal textures.

Grazed metallization
Metallization and delicate mother-of-pearl finishes embellish smooth leathers with a rather firm handle. Almost imperceptible, the shine of sprayed color anodizations is revealed during movement. Reflective surfaces react to light and its slight inflexions on the scales of python skin, melt into the cloud of color on vegetable-tanned leather or more technical items, like reflective fabrics for accessories textiles.  Exhibitors: Alran, Megisserie Laurent, Omnipel, Anaconda, Megisserie Lauret, Ckd Cetinkaya.

Bold emblematics
The identity of beautiful calf leathers and young bull leathers with a natural or mechanical full grain are accentuated in an urban spirit. A rough and compact solidity but not without softness, with natural grains accentuated by drumming, crispy goat grains, pronounced large grains on buffalo and mechanical grains marked with solid and arid lines. Uniform matt finishes with slightly waxy, rubbery textures reinforce the utilitarian aspect of these neo-classics.  Exhibitors: Dani, Tannerie Remy Carriat, Alran, Didier Lieutard, Alran, Raynaud, TRP-Charvet.

Deliberate imperfections
Distinctive nuances
Leather continues its introspection and questions its identity as a material from a living being. The authentic finishes of leathers, aniline transparencies, enrich their natural colors and reveal the unique character of each skin. Colorizations and finishes are superimposed in transparency: opacity, different tonalities as if set in resin are created, alternately evoking beeswax or caramel, fossil resin. Two-tones, hand-stamped patinas and pull-up finishes embellish the skin’s natural irregularities.
Ennobled undulations
Dried-out cracked appearances, spongy yet robust double surfaces, thick crusts that are still soft and velvety. Surfaces that have been buffed, or bleached as if worn down, are an imperishable protection from the elements. Surfaces appear blurred, new decors appear in shifting colorizations, zones of shine and luster emerge.  Exhibitors: La Doma, Dani, Omnipel, Colomer 1792, Azais, Indutan, Marmara Deri, Anaconda, Opera, Azais, Raynaud, Alran, Colomer 1792, TRP-Charvet.

Precious minerality
Erosions
Inspired by the original textures of the vegetal and mineral worlds, their life cycle and the transformations of the material, leathers and skins slip into an elaborate narrative creativity and tell tales of rocky grains with precious shines, calcinated surfaces with muted metallization. A metallic dust clings to the surfaces of skins, gently eroding it. A steely breath brushes python scales. Alterations are abrasive, the colorizations of metals oxidize, tips of copper and verdigris combine and highlight reliefs. Material has become both mineral and organic and appears to be eroded in an evocation of the effects of time on the elements.
Ornamental stamping
In a more ornamental tale, the material is subject to repetitive, brutal rhythms, stamped and hammered, incised with ancestral inspirations. Faded, almost imperceptible bas-reliefs, worn away by time. Imperceptible decors that reflect an ancient magnificence.
Mineral meandering
Decors in leather and textiles for accessories whose mineral inspirations evoke freeform versions of strata, combining the rugged matt finish of precious rocks, slices of agate with graphic halos. From these forms emerge the hybrid evocations of reptile skins.  Exhibitors: Marmara Deri, Anaconda, Indutan, Opera, Texpiel, Isisi Trend Design, Anaconda, Opera, Anaconda, AzaisFedi Silvano Leather Producer, Texpiel, Marmara Deri, Isisi Trend Design, Omnipel.

Discover our decodings by product destination in our Decodings & Collections.

 

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