AW 20-21 men's shows: A new luxe take on sartorial style

22/01/2020
AW 20-21 men's shows: A new luxe take on sartorial style

The AW 20-21 men's fashion shows saw designers almost universally staking a new claim to tailoring.

 

Behind the strong homage presented at the latest fashion shows was an implied reconsideration of luxury and its codes.

 

Without ceding to nostalgia, and drawing on distinctly modern references, designers appeared to be on a Proustian quest "In Search of Lost Time" -  time that has never seemed so precious. This alternative, less flashy interpretation of luxury boldly takes its own time amidst the frantic pace of our busy lives. It's a moment to look for beautiful finishes, materials and cuts...

 

Research into materials

 

Artisanship and craftsmanship stepped sharply into the spotlight at the shows.

It was if, behind all the impeccably tailored suits crafted for men in a hurry, designers were encouraging us to take a moment and think about the notion of time.

Work reflecting the need for just the right cut, the right finish and research into environmentally friendly materials.

 

 

Confirming the AW 20-21 Men Best survey, the shows championed luxurious and natural materials.

 

Whether pure or blended, noble fibres give birth to new handles, feels and properties. Suitings are thus expanded, for plays on new volumes. Trousers are worked in springy, slight lustrous wools, while mid-season coats are worked in puffy woollens.

Clothes with a classic look but worked together in the silhouette with more technical items and accessories that give a nod to sport, also worked in luxurious materials. An impression of true artisanal know-how emerges: parkas in very fine and supple leather wondrously imitating nylon, or leather sneakers with a hand buffing and patina.

 

 

 

Fabrics | Suitings | Jiangsu Sunshine Co., Ltd, China | Réf : NEBJF615859 - WOOL LINEN SILK CHECK| 45% WOOL 35% LINEN 17% POLY 3% SILK | See more

 

 

Fabrics | Colour-woven | LANIFICIO PAULTEX SRL, Italy| Réf : JET AMM DD - JET AMM DD | WO 70% PL 20% PA 5% AF 5% | See more

 

 

Leather | Full grain leather | Conceria Onda Verde, Italy | Réf : Ghiaccio Cangiante - Conceria Onda Verde - Ghiaccio Cangiante - Conceria Onda Verde| Half hide | See more

 

 

 

Many designers this season also actively advocate an eco-responsible approach, especially in their use of recycled materials. Recycled fabrics give rise to innovative products bridging tailoring and Sport & Tech, confirming the crossover between these two segments. Recycled polyesters with the look and feel of dry wool to be employed in plain or checked versions for this season's tailored pieces - high-waisted pleated trousers, body skimming double-breasted jackets - for an impeccably neat look and drape.

 

 

 

Fabrics | Casual | BONOTTO Spa, Italy | Réf : 1291/R240 - 1291/R240 | 100% RCYPES | See more

 

 

The new tailoring

 

Sartorial codes are in the spotlight, led by houndstooths, herringbones and banker's stripes. Patterns are based on traditional designs but newly reworked and enhanced by the use of daring shapes and materials. Suits combine Bermuda shorts and a double-breasted jacket, or Bermuda shorts layered over trousers.

 

Items drawn from the menswear wardrobe - long trench coats, double-breasted jackets, bombers and oversized pea coats - were undoubtedly the standout items at the shows.

Fashioned from new materials featuring technological prowess and new performance codes, they are just what the AW 20/21 man is calling for - a mix of lightness, comfort and elegance.

 

 

Fabrics | Technical fabrics | HerMin Textile Co., Ltd, Taïwan | Réf : EYCE0094/3/1134 - Salerno| 98% C 3%LY | See more

 

 

 

Fabrics | Suitings | B.O.B. TEXTILE, South Korea | Réf : WWA720GJYF-YA - BR/GREEN | 100%WO | See more

 

 

Fabrics | Suitings | Jiangsu Sunshine Co., Ltd, China | Réf : AX398110 - WOOL POLY FINE STRETCH | 87% WOOL 11% POLY 2% ELASTANCE | See more

 

 

 

A sporty wink

 

 

After several seasons dominated by sportswear and the pursuit of comfort, the AW 20-21 menswear consumer doesn't seem ready to relinquish any of those gains. He may look elegant, but he's always avid for adventure and space.

Aware of those requirements, designers aren't turning their backs on Sportswear references but rather subtly incorporating them to redefine the notion of tailoring and infuse it with a new dimension.

Beneath perfectly tailored suits are slipped hoodies worked in noble materials: cashmere, recycled cotton for cosy but light knits...or luxurious faux-fur varsity jackets in new blends of natural or recycled materials.

Sportswear references are also found in finishing touches. Straps, harnesses, snap hooks, belts, and sleek cords complement classic suit pieces, marking them with a neo-sportswear imprint. Oversized weekend bags and super streamlined biker boots - the star accessories of these fashion shows - are the perfect complement to wear with three-piece banker-stripe suits.

 

 

Fabrics | Plain | Jackytex, Italy | Réf : JSIK808 - SIKKIM 808 | 100% WS | See more

 

 

Fabrics | Imitation skins and furs | PELTEX, France | Réf : 0134.6 - 0134.6 | 55% PES 23% HEMP 23 % AC | See more

 

 

 

Accessories | Metal or plastic accessories | Invoga Srl, Italy | Réf : MT1980 - Metal Buckle | 50 % Zamak 50 % Abs | See more

 

 

 

Accessories | Metal or plastic accessories | METTETAL CREATION, France | Réf : 7968 - mousqueton| zinc et aluminium | See more

 

 

 

 

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