MENSWEAR AW19/20 RUNWAY HIGHLIGHTS: LONDON-MILAN

17/01/2019
MENSWEAR AW19/20 RUNWAY HIGHLIGHTS: LONDON-MILAN

 

Freedom and contrast prevail at the AW 19/20 men's shows, for an elegantly eccentric look.

 

Discover here the product selection of the Marketplace following the Men's AW19 / 20 fashion shows in London and Milan.

 

In London and Milan, the autumn/winter 2019-20 men's shows put eccentricity and a search for fantasy front and centre, confirming a highlight pointed up in the 'Best 19-20 Menswear' presented at the most recent Première Vision Paris show.

 

An eccentricity expressed through a free approach to genre, style and movement, found both in the younger generation, many of whom were showing for the first time, and at the major fashion houses.

 

Decorations fuse with unruly fantasy textures: foamy bouclette, dishevelled brushings, interfering chinés, hairy effusions, a pervasive quilted puffiness. Textured effects tousle and transform. Large checks including tartan and windowpane patterns have a new offbeat spin, more rock than low-key; while animal patterns -  led by leopard prints - are exaggerated and wilder than ever! These rebellious takes on deceptively traditional motifs  occasionally turn to double-faces or re-colourings to further blur their origins. A variety of techniques -  printing, weaving, embroidery, inlays - are used on the same fabric or scaled across an entire outfit for a madly chic look.

 

 

Fabrics | Colour-woven | NYTRO & KIVANC SRL, Italy| Ref : CIUFFOSO 1000 AI19 - CIUFFOSO 1000 AI19 |33%WO10%WP27%PC25%PL3%PA2%AF | See more

 

Fabrics | Woollens | Lanificio Lamberto, Italy| Réf : col.5541 - CO WIENNA40 | 70%WV/26%CO/4%PA | See more

 

Fabrics | Jacquard | Tessil Novex, Italy | Réf : TNTA0150- CO TNTA0150 |43%PL 25%PC 21%PA 11%WV| See more

 

Fabrics | Jacquard | Maniffatura Del Pratto, Italy | Réf :DP00282/- CO DP00282/ 41%PL-30%WO-8%PC-6%WM-6%CO-5%AF-4%PA| See more

 

 

Silhouettes fully embrace no-gender, skilfully mixing men's and women's codes. Some men's silhouettes are quite narrowed, even corseted, thanks to stretch suitings, impeccable compacts or strict dry wools.

 

 

Fabrics | Suitings | Chikuma, Japan | Réf :TKT45483 - CO 1980 45-degree Angled Serge - piece dye | 100% PE | See more

 

Fabrics | Knits | Texmoda Tessuti, Italie | Réf :Draxler- CO Draxler | 81% wo 19%pa| See more

 

 

Fabrics | Suitings | Chikuma, Japon| Réf :TKCF700 - CO ECO Washable Wool/PE Gabardine - piece dye | 40% WO 60% PE | See more

 

 

Yet on the side lines of these quite honed looks, a more casual tailoring made its mark in languid suitings and relaxed, washed, softened wools blended with linen or cotton. These were the ideal materials for the showpiece of the London fashion shows: slit pant cuffs.

 

 

Fabrics | Woollens | B.Mood, Italie | Réf :3056F061- CO TBOMBAY100 |35%CO 29%WO 23%LI 10%PA 3%AF | See more

 

 

Fabrics | Knits | Texmoda Tessuti, Italie | Réf :11840- CO 11840 |40%pc 30%pl 28%wo 2%af | See more

 

 

Menswear breaks free of its traditional codes to assume contrast, freely working together decoration, volume, fabrics and colours for a rebellious but elegant silhouette.

 

In a coming article, find the product selection of the Marketplace following the Men's A/W 19/20 shows in Paris.

 

 

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