Perspectives AW2122: Ambivalent opulence

15/09/2020

The season's transversal highlights: the most creative and representative products from the exhibitors' latest collections, selected by the Première Vision fashion team.

Fantasy is expressed ambiguously, resplendently.
Fluctuating between a festive extravagance and a decorative restraint,
Colors, volumes and surfaces are adorned with varied and disparate embellishments, tracing out a delectable winter season full of creative proposals.
On the one hand, the season boasts a festive splendor, celebrating fantasy, precious decoration and a certain eccentricity.
On the other, materials take a more modest approach, with a full suppleness, a muted luster, with abstract and hazy, barely legible but richly worked motifs.

 

Jacquards and brocades trace scrolls and arabesques with a Byzantine influence, adorned in darkened shot reflections. Medieval rosettes inspire components with finely hammered surfaces, and leathers are embellished with decorative embossings. Patterns are emphasized by voluminous woven relief and puffy yarns. Even in leather, grains and crackles seem deliberately exacerbated.
In lace, embroidery and jacquards, surfaces reveal coppery reflections, either in all-over or accents. Bronzed quiltings are surprisingly mobile, leathers display a subtle warmed-up glossiness, and buttons, laces and belts glow with matte and diluted shades of coppery pink.
In the spotlight this season are hairies and cut-yarns in their most expressive and precious interpretations: fringed sequins, disheveled tweeds, hairy floral jacquards, borders with plush lacings, tufted and colorful buttons and ribbons, not to mention extravagant furs with a vivacious colorful impact.Exhibitors: Antik Dantel, Dentelles André Laude, Maison Léveque & Fils, Tissages Denis & Fils, Isisi Trend Design, Marmara Deri, Gratacos, La Doma, Dutel Création, Jules Tournier Since 1865, Wedtex, Dentelles Jean Bracq, FCN Textiles, Tissages Denis & Fils, Dentelles Jean Bracq.

In a more unassuming register, opulence is elaborated in materials with a deliciously draping richness, roundness and suppleness, from silky dress and skirt weights to thick and fluid knits and wovens, weighty and nimble suitings and jacket weights, and lace and embroidery with full handles. Full grain leathers are creamy to perfection, with exaggerated grains and a likeable roundness, plump and airy buttons and accessories.
Light-imparted fantasy is shifting, conveying a luxurious, timeworn, faded shine, with attenuated and satiny shines in leathers, silkies and knits, as well as in technical fabrics, suitings and even shirtings.
Decorations are visibly understated, expressed in filigree or an airy pointillism, and accessory components trace out ornamental waves and curves.Exhibitors: Goutarel, Sophie Hallette, Opera, Carlo Pozzi, Potencier Broderies, Delta Tex, Anbievolution, Dilek Tekstil, Can Tekstil, Colomer, Dani, Marmara Deri, Pontex, Philea, Bahariye, Taiana.

Discover our article about the inspiration that launched the season on the Première Vision website, as well as our decodings by product destination in our Decodings & Collections.
Discover a detailed look at the entire season in the Season TrendTasting.

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