Perspectives AW2122 : Lively by temperament

15/09/2020

The season's transversal highlights: the most creative and representative products from the exhibitors' latest collections, selected by the Première Vision fashion team.

The passing of time is both elaborated and celebrated this season. The influence of nature and its fundamental elements, the earth and its perpetual evolution, mark the look and surfaces of fabrics, leathers and accessories.
The singularity of imperfections inspired by natural processes, and the original weathering of materials spurs a focused taste for irregularity. A sign of originality, irregularity is also an indication of personalization, a final, even paramount, touch that makes a product stand out from one that is standard and lacking in personality. The mineral world, rocks and pebbles inspire patterns, and a certain rough unevenness is behind the unique nature of each product, just as moving, indistinct and hazy color lends a delightful particularity to surfaces.

 

Mineral swirls and impurities especially inspire accessory components, with irregular surfaces reminiscent of rocks, pebbles and boulders. Sliced-open stones with brilliantly colored hearts, intoxicating strata and limestone aspects are the favoured subjects of designers and decorative motifs.
The season is marked by kindly protection, and never ignores the sturdy side of each material's durability and utility. Products marked by a noble roughness and singularity evoke bold and new tailoring and sports apparel, for both men and women.
The importance of functionality and solidity can be found in robust indigos, cottons and wools with recognizable visuals, as well as in weaves derived from utilitarian materials: marked diagonals for highly dense, functional and appealing fabrics, and thick, round, protective leathers.Exhibitors: Altoteks, Dani, Kuroki, Alran, Tannerie Remy Carriat.

A ruggedness is also expressed in time-tested fabrics, leathers and accessories with an almost luxurious irregularity: worn looks fashioned in jacquards and refined suitings where finely torn-out threadlike patterns dissolve and re-emerge; restrained but skillful needle-punchings; and lace with studied linear mishaps. Barely-there scuffs in leather, scarcely discernible cracks, and a subtle hint of roughness evoke life in all its subtlety.Exhibitors: Pakipek Tekstil, Aspesi Federico, Pizval, Marini Industrie, Lanificio Subalpino, Leathertex, Opera, Seojin Textile, Marcy - Côté Plume..., Lecuyer - Fantex - Groupe Lecuyer, Alran.

Natural transformations are brilliantly expressed by expertly-crafted corrosions. Weathering is interpreted in a full panoply of ways, always with a cutting-edge research into color. Preciously uneven jacquards evoke decomposition; while metallic, eroded, finely wrinkled leathers and accessories with a volcanic accent are lit up by incandescent bursts. Components underscore the roughness of natural materials such as horn or bio-sourced resin, and labels and buttons feature elaborate oxidations.Exhibitors: Opera, Lartigianabottoni, Taiana, Nastrotex-Cufra, Hamzagil, Raynaud, Nastrotex-Cufra, Soieries Cheval.

Fantasy takes on a hazy look in almost fluffy visual blurrings, with tone-on-tone needle-punchings on woolly embroideries; aged and bleached leathers with tonal veinings; and hazily colored stripes and checks on brushed, flannelled broadcloths . Slightly washed aspects bring surfaces to life, while dress weight cast off all weight with puffed-looking finishings.
Even technical fabrics are captivated by these visual variations with disturbed, diluted, diffused prints and color effects.

Explore decodings by product destination in our Decodings & Collections, and get a detailed look at the entire season in the Season TrendTasting.

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