MEN'S TAILORING STYLE FOCUS: looks and materials

16/11/2020

For AW 21/22, men are firmly resisting the need to make a choice between elegance, performance and comfort.

With a relaxed approach to tailoring, a new precision in urban cuts, and the technological performance of sportswear, men's wardrobes cultivate the dual ambivalence infusing all of the season's creative directions. By skillfully combining cuts and materials, menswear brilliantly updates the look of citywear while meeting the specific needs generated by new ways of getting around the city.

Find here the must-have styles and materials to build your tailored collections for the AW 21/22 season.

High-performance tailoring

The idea of donning a smart coat to brave the elements on your bike or scooter without making any sacrifices in terms of style is tremendously appealing.

And as if to ensure a caring kind of protection, puffers grow fuller and more sophisticated with inventive paddings and more city-oriented volumes.

Light and airy, they come in water-repellant and down proof polyamides, whether lamé or lacquered, with a pronounced shine. Strong color contrasts and decorated quiltings add a touch of personalized fantasy.

Another chic alternative are leather trenchcoats. Here, cuts are precise, while pared-down and functional metallic accessories borrow a page from industrial design. Fine and thermal linings are removable, and stretch lamb leathers with a perfect chromatic uniformity proudly champion their easy-care or waterproof properties.

 

 

Underneath this elegant and protective urban outerwear, suits boast structured cuts with lapels and cuffs, sometimes almost resembling a second skin, which calls for stretch wools for truly impeccable drape and ease of movement.

Mono-stretch wools are enhanced with thermal and quick-drying properties for optimized daily use.

Outwardly formal looking, shirts are cut clean and close to the body without ever molding it too closely.. They are made of raw indigo-saturated denim in cotton/lyocell blends whose suppleness encourages ergonomic styles, and brilliantly accommodates movement. More classic shirtings are made from cotton that is breathable and specially treated to resist stains and odors.

Quilted knits in recycled cotton/polyester blends are endowed with climatic and bi-stretch properties, perfect for designing polo shirts offering both practicality and aesthetic appeal.

Large, sturdy and waterproof leather bags finish off the silhouette. The appearance of these nearly matte gummed leathers adds a sporty note to their simplified designs.  Complete with multiple pockets and interior storage, these bags provide stylish protection for computers, tablets, mobile phones and other everyday electronics.

For footwear, classic shoes such as Chelsea boots and moccasins catch the eye with their imposing lines and thick, notched soles that are incredibly lightweight.

Relaxed tailoring

Hand in hand with this technical influence, tailored looks go in for a relaxed style, making the most of the authenticity of casual materials without losing any elegance. Fabrics are lively and blurred, as if time had worked patiently to create and bring out all their singularity.

Classic archetypes focus on the quality of the materials and favor sustainability, to ever more fully address eco-design concepts.

Wools are traceable, cottons are organic and polyesters are deliberately recycled.

Suitings are given a particularly refined note by the clever addition of bouclé or colorful thrown yarns. Wools are blended with cellulosic fibers to lend added suppleness and casualness.

In terms of coats, iconic trenches and overcoats are given a re-fresh with Prince of Wales woolens or checks with an aged, wrinkled or partially over-dyed look.

Shapes are boxy, slightly overcut to enhance the stature. The use of double-faced woolens with resized patterns in the details of lapels, collars or cuffs constitutes another creative approach. Occasionally, cuts embrace casual codes while playing with more formal materials. Varsity jackets gain sophistication thanks to luxurious and sensual material combinations, as in extremely refined nappa lambskin leather and nubucks in contrasting colors.

These last can be worn with cropped carrot pants. Precisely cut in soft, round wools, they have a fuller waist and feature a drawstring or elastic band at the ankle to ensure comfort.

Shirts are fitted but relaxed thanks to contrasting stitching details and large flap chest pockets clearly influenced by workwear. Or, conversely, they can be oversized in an almost over-shirt spirit, and worn with a more formal turtleneck in a fine merino knit.

Boxy 90's-inspired shirts in cellulosic blends wittily update all-overs influenced by Memphis' design through the use of digitized lines. This slightly youthful look is given a final touch with heritage sneakers boasting color blocking worked in confident and contrasting colors.

 

Fully determined to embrace the latest market evolutions, AW 21/22 men's looks for the city enjoy reinventing the genre's codes with skill and expediency, for new style directions that brilliantly reconcile performance, elegance and comfort.

Don't miss our other Style Focus fashion breakdowns for AW 21/22, and other design-collection articles.

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