Denim Première Vision: S/S 21 Trends Close-up


Eco-responsibility, fashion and technology



The Denim Première Vision show, which ran from 3-4 December 2019, closed its doors on an edition that put the accent on eco-responsibility, fashion and technology. Here, the Marketplace reveals the major denim trends for spring summer 2021, and gives you access to them right now via its selection of denim fabrics.


S/S 21 revolves around 3 main directions: water, irregular surfaces and geometric structures.


Water makes its mark



A key S/S21 trend celebrates water in its many guises.


Aware of the environmental impact generated by denim production, weavers have made significant strides in recent years, particularly in terms of saving energy and water.


Weavers have developed various techniques designed to drastically minimise the water used in producing denim, which has been perceived as energy-hungry. For example, Brazil's Vicunha uses an organic cotton grown with 92% rainwater.





Fabrics | Denim | VICUNHA TEXTIL SA, Brazil | Réf : AGAR - CO AGAR| 98%CO 2%EA 30%Stretch | See more




The influence of water also comes through in fabrics' decorative designs. The show unveils looks inspired by aquatic motion, with waves and reflections enlivening surfaces and creating graduated colour effects. A variety of techniques are behind these designs: graduated dyes, laser printing, etc.

This trend also provides a glimpse of new softer and subtler tie-dye interpretations, seen here in NDL's 100% cotton plain weave, featuring a sustainable finishing process.  Another example includes the partially recycled cotton from Kurabo.


Movement can also be traced back to materials that are at once quite supple and natural, such as lyocell or cotton-lyocell blends. This kind of fluidity with a wavy motion can be found in Kipas' lyocell-cotton blends.




Fabrics | Denim | Naveena Denim - NDL, Pakistan | Réf : NDL-4996-16 - CO YES BLUE| 100% Cotton | See more




Fabrics | Denim | KURABO INDUSTRY LTD, Japan | Réf : DAL10442 - CO DAL10442| 100%COTTON (RECYCLE 30%) | See more




Fabrics | Denim | KIPAS, Turkey | Réf : 26730 - CO ARIA BLUE HAZE | 90%CLY 10%BCI | See more



Surface irregularities



Another direction is characterized by a new way of working  surfaces. Here, surfaces create a hybrid effect via crumpled effects, or compact fabrics that, in the process of wrinkling, retain the original lines of motion, thus creating interesting visual accidents, as in this example by Tusa.




Fabrics | Denim | TUSA DENIM, Turkey | Réf :Porto 5500 - CO Porto 5500 | 79%Cotton 20%PES 1%EA | See more



Another noteworthy direction is the use of irregular yarns such as slubbed yarns, which lend a more handcrafted look and more visible structures to denim. The result is even more accentuated by the use of natural hemp or linen fibres, both pure or blended. For example, Envoy is proposing a 100% linen whose rusticity is enhanced by its dark colourway. This rustic quality is also found in the slubbed organic cotton from Siddinqsons.




Fabrics | Denim | Envoy Textiles, Bangladesh | Réf :T1681 - CO Rigid | 100%LI | See more




 Fabrics | Denim | SIDDIQSONS LIMITED, Pakistan | Réf :DS-5674 - CO DS-5674 | 100% ORG COTTON | See more



Geometric structure



A final direction highlights artisanal craftsmanship, and the use of finishes and technology to achieve a unique geometric result.


Some fabrics move away from the classic 3/1 structure to venture into new square weave constructions, playing on micro-sized versions for a piqué effect or, inversely, in oversize versions. Other potential constructions include plays on herringbone effects.


A geometric influence can also be achieved by means of particular techniques, including laser printing, hand-drawn effects, silk-screen printing, and more...for fantasy always marked by discretion.




Fabrics | Denim | DENİM KUMAŞÇILIK TİC.VE SAN.A.Ş., Turkey | Réf :LIEDERKE 03.510.04 - CO LIEDERKE 03.510.04 | 40%CO37%PES20%VI3%EA | See more




Fabrics | Denim | Naveena Denim - NDL, Pakistan | Réf : NDL-4718-A-01 - CO BLUR BLUE | 100% Cotton | See more



The boundaries between fashion, technology and eco-responsibility are a thing of the past - allowing weavers to further advance their creativity for the S/S 21 season.


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